If you’re in search of wines that offer an authentic expression of Central Otago’s unique terroir, Moko Hills should be on your radar. Located in the Bendigo subregion, Moko Hills produces under 140 cases of each wine, including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and a sub-label, Kakano Pinot Noir. These wines are carefully crafted by winemaker and viticulturist Donald van der Westhuizen, who brings a blend of scientific insight and artistic interpretation to his winemaking. In this article, we dive into a recent interview with Donald, where he shares his journey, philosophy, and vision for Moko Hills.

 

How did your background and experiences shape your current style and techniques?

Donald: “This is more of a question of what shapes us as human beings—how our individual experiences shape community and, ultimately, a sense of place. It’s like a puzzle piece to the idea of terroir. I was born in a small town in South Africa, about 45 minutes south of Johannesburg, and moved to New Zealand in 1996. Growing up on the East Coast Bays of Auckland, I developed a love for the natural environment and a passion for the outdoors, thanks to my father. This ultimately led me to study Conservation and Biosecurity at the University of Auckland and later, a Masters in Ecosystem Ecology.

My background as a Research Ecologist taught me to appreciate the complexities of nature, and it continues to influence my approach to farming today. Making wine in places like Oregon and Burgundy also helped me realize that wine isn’t just about the land—it’s about the people and the culture that surround and are within. Life experiences, a deep understanding of our environment, and the community around me continue to shape my winemaking and my perception of what wine can be.”

 

Who were your mentors or influences in the wine industry, and what did you learn from them?

Donald: “The Central Otago wine industry is known for its collaboration, and I’ve had the privilege of working with many great people. Many of the legends I looked up to when I first entered the industry have become mentors, peers, and close friends. Their support has been integral to my growth, and the culture they’ve helped create in Central Otago is a big reason why I’ve put down roots here.

My longest-serving mentors are my parents. The courage they showed in moving to New Zealand in 1996, allowing for the opportunities it has presented to my sister and I have been vital to our success. They instilled in us a value of exploration, education, and focusing on future generations, which has guided both my personal and professional life.”

 

What role does terroir play in the wines you produce, and how does it shape your final product?

Donald: “Terroir is a complex beast, not just in terms of the land but in the interactions between soil, climate, and the people working that land. The site at Moko Hills, with its mix of soil diversity, elevation, and unique flora and fauna, contributes to wines that are deeply reflective of this place. But terroir isn’t just the soil and climate; it’s also about the interpretation of that place. Like music, everyone interprets a place a little differently.

I work closely with Jen Parr, a good friend and mentor, and we both make wine from the same vineyard. When you taste her wines, you can see how the site influences them, yet our interpretations are unique. That’s the beauty of terroir—it’s a blend of place, perception, context, and people.”

 

What can you tell us about the vineyard where your grapes are grown? What makes it special?

Donald: “Moko Hills is a 40-hectare, family-owned estate nestled in the foothills of the Dunstan Range in Central Otago’s Bendigo subregion. The vineyard is embraced by native flora and fauna, including stands of kānuka and kōwhai, which create a unique and biodiverse environment. This rich landscape includes quartz and schist outcrops, as well as a variety of soils, from red and orange clays to free-draining gravels and silts.

The vineyard sits at an elevation of 310-370 meters above sea level, which stretches the maturity timeline of the fruit, increasing variability and complexity during each harvest. It’s this combination of environmental factors—soil, climate, biodiversity—that creates a sense of place in every bottle we produce. At Moko Hills, we respect the land and its history, while also contributing to its future through sustainable and regenerative farming practices.”

 

What future projects or ideas are you currently working on or dreaming about?

Donald: “I’m always dreaming. Right now, my biggest vision is to create a place where people can come together, create memories, and feel at home. I want to build a space that not only nurtures creativity but also offers a lasting legacy. It would be a place where we can give, and in return, it gives back. A space to connect with nature, the community, and the land. It’s about creating something unique—something enduring.”

 

Moko Hills is more than just a winery; it’s a representation of the intricate relationship between land, nature, and the people who cultivate it. With minimal intervention in winemaking, a deep respect for the land, and a commitment to sustainability, Donald van der Westhuizen is crafting wines that express the very essence of Bendigo’s terroir. Given the limited production, I strongly encourage securing a bottle before they inevitably sell out. Moko Hills is a winery that will surely leave a lasting mark on the Central Otago wine scene. Keep an eye on this one—you won’t want to miss what’s coming next.

 

Find out more about Moko Hills.